Hasselblad X1D-50C Medium Format Camera
Notes:
I've discovered that the X1D does not like UHS-II SD memory cards. It also does not like cards over 32GB. Use USH-I cards not over 32GB. The status LED (red dot ) flashes when the unit is busy writing to the card. On disliked cards the write time is variable, sometimes seeming to take 5 seconds or so. If you push the shutter release while the status light is flashing, nothing happens. The result is puzzling failure to release the shutter for no apparent reason unless you notice that the status LED is flashing.
The X1D does not have a manual shutter and f stop mode where the ISO remains automatic. One solution, for night shooting, is to use the "S" mode where the shutter is manual and set the ISO to be auto. The camera will then try to keep the ISO as low as possible, adjusting the f-stop automatically. This mode is useful for handheld night shooting where the shutter must be fast enough to prevent shake.
If it is desired to control the f-number to control depth of field, I use "A" mode and set the aperature. The ISO control can then be use to control the shutter speed and ISO.
Generally, I set the camera to manual focus and then use the AF-D button to auto focus, or else use manual focus.
When setting up custom modes, set the camera in the dial mode desired when in the custom mode. For example, set the dial to "A", set MF, set ISO to Auto, then save the mode in C1. Now when the dial is in C1 the dial mode will be "A" , ISO in AUTO and focus in MF. When in C1 all the modes can be changed. The C1 settings are default.
In manual focus mode you have the choice of auto zoom when the focus sleeve is turned or peaking color, not both.
The excellent software Capture One 11 (substitute for Lightroom) ignores the X1D files because Phase One has their own medium format cameras and Hasselblad is a competitor. To fix this I export the files from Phocus in DNG format and then I use the program Photos Exif Editor (available in Apple App Store) to blank out the "Camera Make" or "Camera Maker" field, removing the Hasselblad name. It is not necessary to remove the Hasselblad name anyplace else in the data. The program can blank out this field in all the DNG files in a folder in one step. The work flow is to first use the Hasselblad app Phocus to convert all the Hasselblad raw files to DNG files, then I use Photos Exif Editor to remove the Hasselblad name. Then I can use Capture One 11 to work further.
Capture One 11 handles many raw formats unlike Lightroom and the screen looks better. Adobe will probably force lightroom into a subscription mode. Capture one allows use on 3 computers and costs $300.
I found that the Mamiya 200mm APO f2.8 lens with an adapter works great on the X1D. The telephoto extender works great too, giving a 400mm f5.6 lens. The electronic shutter must be used and a tripod is essential due to the way the electronic shutter scans. These Mamiya lenses are obsolete film lenses and are very cheap on ebay. I also discovered that the Nikon 300mm f4 lens that uses a Fresnel element works great on the X1D but only at f2.8. An old Nikon 600mm f4 works great too and does the Takahashi 85mm baby Q telescope with the field flatner. These lenses can handle the 54 mm diameter image circle of the X1D compared to the 43 mm of full frame 35.
I've discovered that the X1D does not like UHS-II SD memory cards. It also does not like cards over 32GB. Use USH-I cards not over 32GB. The status LED (red dot ) flashes when the unit is busy writing to the card. On disliked cards the write time is variable, sometimes seeming to take 5 seconds or so. If you push the shutter release while the status light is flashing, nothing happens. The result is puzzling failure to release the shutter for no apparent reason unless you notice that the status LED is flashing.
The X1D does not have a manual shutter and f stop mode where the ISO remains automatic. One solution, for night shooting, is to use the "S" mode where the shutter is manual and set the ISO to be auto. The camera will then try to keep the ISO as low as possible, adjusting the f-stop automatically. This mode is useful for handheld night shooting where the shutter must be fast enough to prevent shake.
If it is desired to control the f-number to control depth of field, I use "A" mode and set the aperature. The ISO control can then be use to control the shutter speed and ISO.
Generally, I set the camera to manual focus and then use the AF-D button to auto focus, or else use manual focus.
When setting up custom modes, set the camera in the dial mode desired when in the custom mode. For example, set the dial to "A", set MF, set ISO to Auto, then save the mode in C1. Now when the dial is in C1 the dial mode will be "A" , ISO in AUTO and focus in MF. When in C1 all the modes can be changed. The C1 settings are default.
In manual focus mode you have the choice of auto zoom when the focus sleeve is turned or peaking color, not both.
The excellent software Capture One 11 (substitute for Lightroom) ignores the X1D files because Phase One has their own medium format cameras and Hasselblad is a competitor. To fix this I export the files from Phocus in DNG format and then I use the program Photos Exif Editor (available in Apple App Store) to blank out the "Camera Make" or "Camera Maker" field, removing the Hasselblad name. It is not necessary to remove the Hasselblad name anyplace else in the data. The program can blank out this field in all the DNG files in a folder in one step. The work flow is to first use the Hasselblad app Phocus to convert all the Hasselblad raw files to DNG files, then I use Photos Exif Editor to remove the Hasselblad name. Then I can use Capture One 11 to work further.
Capture One 11 handles many raw formats unlike Lightroom and the screen looks better. Adobe will probably force lightroom into a subscription mode. Capture one allows use on 3 computers and costs $300.
I found that the Mamiya 200mm APO f2.8 lens with an adapter works great on the X1D. The telephoto extender works great too, giving a 400mm f5.6 lens. The electronic shutter must be used and a tripod is essential due to the way the electronic shutter scans. These Mamiya lenses are obsolete film lenses and are very cheap on ebay. I also discovered that the Nikon 300mm f4 lens that uses a Fresnel element works great on the X1D but only at f2.8. An old Nikon 600mm f4 works great too and does the Takahashi 85mm baby Q telescope with the field flatner. These lenses can handle the 54 mm diameter image circle of the X1D compared to the 43 mm of full frame 35.